These are the days...
It’s a gorgeous, late winter day; 55 degrees and sunny. An early morning dog-walk brings the smell of Daphne adora to my dormant nasal passages. This is going to be a DAY, I can feel it. My buddy Jet is back home from Vietnam, having just led a bike tour over there. We worked together at the Herbfarm for many years, at times the only women in the kitchen. We developed slightly steely exteriors to protect our sensitive innards, as we sauteed and butchered and plated alongside of our band of brothers. We bonded with each other and with our crew, laughing and fighting with each other just like a family.
Jet hung up her apron a few years back and picked up a bike pump instead. I’m the president of her welcoming committee each time she steps back on home soil. She brings me pepper from Cambodia and a spice blend called Amok. She brings me stories of her culinary adventures.
From an email I received from her a few weeks ago:
“(In Cambodia) lunch basically ends up being some amazing local feast, several boxes of beer (24 each) and then some form of entertainment that lasts all afternoon. You don't go back to work after lunch. I swear Cambodians drink way more than the Vietnamese and the Vietnamese drink a shit ton. I feel slightly pickled at this point.
And then she describes a food so gross I air-gag:
“You should know that turtle eggs are in season right now and the stinkiest condiment on earth comes from Cambodia. Prahok is way stinkier than fish sauce and pretty darn disgusting to look at. It is basically (a) gray, rotting, fermenting fish paste; scales, fins and all. I went to dinner out at the floating village with my guesthouse's hosts and watched the women make dinner. They kept apologizing for how dirty the kitchen was. It wasn't really, but they cook everything sitting on the floor and the surroundings of this village are pretty dirty. Luckily they have a well to rinse stuff with fresh water. The funniest part was that they didn't want me to see the prahok come out of its jar, but I wasn't going to leave the kitchen. So they finally dug these gooey, chunky blobs out of the jar onto a cutting board and then chopped it with a cleaver into a finer paste incorporating lemongrass, garlic and chilies until they had this thick, liquidy sauce. After that they shooed me out of the kitchen to eat and DRINK with the men. Eventually that sauce came out and we dipped this amazing BBQ beef into it. The sauce itself is pretty disgusting, but on the meat it was perfectly balanced: salty, hot, and tangy. I am still waiting to see if I am going to get sick after that meal. The head guy kept putting ice chunks in my beer; I ate another duck egg; (plus) all the fresh veggies and greens. Hopefully the amount of beer I’m drinking is keeping the bugs at bay.
Jet and I talk shop, constantly. If we’re not talking about food, we’re cooking it or out eating it, ripping each bite apart, a brutal sport of culinary love where the winners earn our attempts at duplication and the losers receive our scorn. Like to eat your food in silent contemplation? You’d hate to eat with us.
We’re on a ferry in this picture, heading over to Vashon Island, on re-con to check out nettles. April and I are teaming up with Jet this spring to lead a nettle foraging trip on Vashon. It could be the beginning of a joke: a chef, a sommelier and an ecologist walk into some nettles.
Jet and I venture out onto the deck of the ferry, take that photo and then, freezing from the wind, hurry back inside to grab a seat, watch the birds and get a game plan going. Jet is a woman of many talents; before she was at the Herbfarm she worked as a watershed ecologist, specializing in salmonid habitat. She can fly a plane. She leads kayak tours. She has wanderlust something fierce but also craves home, if only for a short stay.
Today our mission is to scope out the environment, plan our stops, survey the land and note where the smallest baby nettles are starting to poke their heads up into the sun. We see salmonberry bushes which will start to blossom out soon (and we plan our garnish for the nettle soup). We see miners lettuce and peppercress and envision little spring salads. We see mountains and Jet actually knows the names of the peaks while all I can say is, “pretty mountains!”
We stop in town for lunch at Sea Breeze Farm’s
La Boucherie Restaurant. I’ve never been before, but I’ve heard good things. I’m so giddy with the beautiful day, with the joyful good riddance to the plague I caught last week, that I take one look at the menu and say, “Tripe! I want to try tripe!"
The butcher shopI've never tried tripe before. I doubt I'll try it again. At the time, though, it seemed like the right thing to do. It seemed more than right, it seemed perfectly appropriate. Jet keeps reading the menu and exclaims, “kidneys!” and I call and respond with “pig’s feet!” and before we know it we are staring at three plates.
The smell of the tripe hits long before the delivery of the plate. It is then that I start to question my adventurous spirit. Tripe is the stomach lining of a cow. It has fans the world over, the Vietnamese tuck it into pho, the Italians stew it with tomatoes and chilies. It is nearly impossible to digest. I know this only now, days after my run in with tripe. Frankly, I don’t know why I wouldn’t have known this before I ordered a big bowl of it. I mean, really, it’s stomach. If stomach were easy to digest, the organ transplant lists would be overrun with people needing new stomachs. I’m no doctor but I’d venture a guess that evolution has favored those with the most indigestible stomachs. And this, I decide to eat? Wonders never cease.
Beef tripe in tomato-chile broth
I eat a tentative bite. The texture is chewy and not at all unpleasant but the smell. The smell. I can’t get beyond the smell. It’s an extremely gamy, gastric odor. Jet thinks it smells like methane, which is just a nicer way to say it smells like ass. Jet continues to eat it (I’m not entirely sure, but hypothesize that her dealings with eating intestines and little kitties and doggies in Asia make tripe seem downright boring). I eat a second bite, never wanting to form a judgment about anything based on one try. I eat a third and final bite and then, rapidly form my judgment: I will never eat tripe again, unless the smell significantly improves the next time around.
Lamb kidneys in mustard cream sauceThe kidneys are delicious, tender, thankfully mild, enlivened with the sharpness of a mustard sauce. The pig’s feet have been braised, shredded and stuffed into a crepe parcel, served alongside a mache salad. The meat is unctuous and rich and refreshingly familiar and I’ve never been as happy to eat my greens as I was to eat those little heads of mache.
George Page, owner of Sea Breeze, along with his manager Matt, chat with us pleasantly about the menu, the beauty of pulling lamb kidneys right out of the carcass and frying them up. We set up a lunch plan for our tour, a set menu, slightly less adventurous with most of the food sourced from their farm. He gives us a quick tour of his walk-in, a convergence zone between a farm, butcher shop and a restaurant. Trays of parts line a rolling rack, kidneys here, kidneys there, some lamb testicles, all laid out neatly like butterflies gently pinned to their substrate. We stand outside in the sun and discuss the politics and regulations that go along with farming, charcuterie-making, and restaurant management when you also have a farm and a winery and sell to the public. It’s a web of regulatory insanity; at once, seemingly crucial in protecting the public and yet, so bogged down with bureaucratic complexity and ridiculousness that it is nearly impossible to navigate (not to manage, often ineffective - see: contaminated peanuts, spinach, jalapenos, etc...).
A peek into La Boucherie's walk-inIt is then, I think, that Jet stated, “I think the pig’s feet are kicking the kidneys and the cow stomach is having none of it.” We head off to the land to walk the perimeters and identify the flora when Jet’s stomach really starts rumbling. We giggle each and every time she burps and hope that our stomachs win in the “which stomach will digest which stomach” game being played out in our bellies. We get in the truck to head to the ferry back home and then I start in on the methane belches. We grab an orange we see in the truck, scratch the skin and stick it under our noses to offset the hideous odor filling the cab. We laugh each time we burp and curse ourselves for the short-sighted decision to eat not one adventurous dish, but three.
“And here I sit on this balcony by the beach at this health oasis where people are doing 10 - 14 day fasting and cleansing programs. I should be cleansing I suppose, but don't want to spend a lot of money to wipe out my Cambodian/Vietnamese flora and fauna. I think I am quite fond of them.”
Back on the ferry, we scribble out on notebook paper the tentative itinerary for our trip, likely to be held twice, once on the last Sunday of March and again the first Sunday of April.
9:20 am: Meet at April and Becky’s condo on Capitol Hill
10:30 Ferry to Vashon Island
11:30 Nettle Foraging (plus spring greens and salmonberry blossoms, if blooming) with fresh-brewed Nettle Tea
12:30 Tour at Hogsback Farm
1:30 Lunch at La Boucherie
3:30 Ferry back to Becky and April’s condo for cooking class (Home-smoked salmon with morels and nettle sauce; nettle and goat cheese ravioli; bay laurel ice cream)
6:00 Light dinner
7:00 Trip concludes
It’s hours later and we’re back in Seattle. The cow is having the last laugh because we’re still losing the digestion game. Eaten tripe before? Did you digest it or did it digest you?
(apologies for the very long entry. I thought about breaking this into two parts, but I’m so back-blogged right now, tomorrow will likely bring a new entry entirely.)